Learn how to make a cheap and easy DIY shiplap wall with this easy tutorial. With only plywood and nails you can recreate this expensive look for less.
Shiplap!
Oh the things husbands do for us!
Can I just say I am so happy we did this? It makes the wall behind our bed a focal point and I love the how the plank wall adds texture to the wall.
This project was actually easier than expected and was pretty inexpensive!
The total cost for the project came under $100 for a 160″ by 90″ wall.
Not too bad for such a huge impact. We also did this on the ceilings in the kids rooms to cover up those not so pretty popcorn ceilings. You can find that tutorial here.
Adding this feature completely changes the look of this room and we are so thankful we did it.
Tips For Creating A Shiplap Wall
We used 6″ plywood strips, but you could cut this thinner or thicker depending on what you are going for. We have 8″ original shiplap in our boys closet, but I’ve also seen some really beautiful skinny lap with 3″ strips.
Choose plywood boards wisely making sure they don’t blemishes or are bowed. Smooth and straight will work best.
Speaking of that, we also had a major bow in the plaster to contend with. We solved that by having me hold the boards out a little, to make them even with the others, while my husband shot the nail in.
This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. See my full disclosure here.
DIY Shiplap Supplies And Tools
- Plywood: 4 sheets 4′ by 8′ sanded plywood at 11/32″ thickness, cut into 6″ strips
- Air compressor and nail gun
- 1 and 3/8″ 18 gauge nails
- Nickel for a spacer
- Circular saw: to cut the top piece.
- Miter saw: for cutting pieces to length.
- Jig saw: for cutting out specs for light switches and outlets.
- Painting supples: rollers, paint brush, primer, paint.
- Stud finder
- Level
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How To Install Shiplap Wall
Step One: Prepping Materials And Wall
- Purchase and cut plywood down to 6 inch strips. I bought four sheets of 4’X8′ sanded plywood at 11/32″ thickness. I had Lowes cut it in 6″ strips. At $.25 per cut it was worth every penny. You could also use a table saw to rip them down yourself.
- Mark studs on wall using stud finder and pencil to ensure that each board is nailed into a stud.
Step Two: Nail Shiplap Onto Wall
- Starting at the baseboard, we placed one full 8′ board at the edge of the wall and nailed it in place use nail gug.
- Next, cut one to fit the rest of the wall, which for our wall was right at 5 and 1/3 feet. Place besides the 8 foot piece and nail into place.
- This left us with several scraps just under 3 feet. If the wall had been an even 12 feet, we would have done an 8 foot and 4 foot piece in each row and had no leftover pieces, but the world is not perfect and our house is old.
- This left us with several scraps just under 3 feet. If the wall had been an even 12 feet, we would have done an 8 foot and 4 foot piece in each row and had no leftover pieces, but the world is not perfect and our house is old.
- Place 8 foot board on the opposite side of the wall above the previous row and use a nickel as a spacer between each new row, sliding it along as we nailed the board into place.
- We just continued to alternate which side we used the 8 foot board on. We used a Bostitch air compressor and nail gun and 1 and 3/8 inch 18 gauge nails that we purchased at Lowes. It made the project pretty speedy!
- We just continued to alternate which side we used the 8 foot board on. We used a Bostitch air compressor and nail gun and 1 and 3/8 inch 18 gauge nails that we purchased at Lowes. It made the project pretty speedy!
- Use a level every few boards to make sure the boards are staying level and not getting too wonky. We definitely had to fudge a little here and there to get things even.
- Cut around any outlets or switches by placing planks on the wall, marking where they need to be cut, and then cut them out using jigsaw.
- Continue alternating boards and using the nickel spacer to nail the shiplap onto the wall until you get near the top.
Step 3: Cut The Top Shiplap Plank
- Measure the space between the last wood strip and the ceiling.
- Cut last piece of plywood and nail into place.
- We did have to cut the top board (right below the crown molding) to be a little less than 6″ wide, as the the (nickel sized) spaces between the boards caused there to be slightly less than 6″ left at the top.
Step 4: Paint
- Optional step: fill nail holes with putty, allow to dry, and then paint. Honestly, we didn’t do this and didn’t mind the small nail holes. You really couldn’t even see them.
- The next day I primed the wall and then painted the whole wall with Benjamin Moore White Dove.
The DIY Shiplap Wall Is Up
After a few hours, the whole wall was done!
I would say most of the time is spent in the prep work, getting the wood and having it cut, cutting the boards to fit and notching it out in the appropriate spots, like on the corners of the baseboards and the electrical outlets.
After all that its smooth sailing!
I love how it turned out! It makes the room feel so light, bright and cozy!
Common Questions People Ask:
How much is shiplap?
Real shiplap has tongue and groove boards that actually fit together, and can be pricey. The shiplap wall in this tutorial cost less than $100. This shiplap tutorial is not actually real shiplap, but is much cheaper.
I have seen real shiplap and I honestly can’t tell the difference between the real tongue and groove and plywood. That ‘s why I opted to go the cheap route!
How wide is shiplap?
The shiplap in this tutorial is 6″ wide, but actual widths can vary. We have real shiplap, from 100 years ago, exposed in our boys’ closet. It is closer to 8″.
What color should you paint shiplap?
We used Benjamin Moore White Dove because I really love the look of white shiplap, but I have seen it look really beautiful in gray and darker colors as well.
You can paint the shiplap before or after your install it. For this tutorial we waited until after it was in place, but you could also paint it before like we did for the ceilings.
Do you put shiplap over drywall?
Yes. You can place it right over drywall or plaster. It it a great way to cover up some wall damage. If you do have a lot of damage you may want to try to repair it before adding shiplap.
Check out the other posts in this bedroom makeover here:
And since so many have asked where my iron bed is from…it is the antique bronze metal bed from Target. I hope to write a review on it in the near future, but *spolier alert* we love it!
Find More Farmhouse Inspired DIY Projects:
- DIY Farmhouse Coffee Table Plans
- Farmhouse Living Room Built Ins
- Victorian Farmhouse Kitchen Reveal
- How to Cover Concrete Steps with Wood
- Ten Foot Office or Craft Room Desk Tutorial
DIY Shiplap Wall
Equipment
- Air compressor and nail gun
- 1 and 3/8″ 18 gague nails
- Nickel for a spacer
Ingredients
- 4 sheets 4′ by 8′ sanded plywood at 11/32″ thickness, cut into 6″ strips
Instructions
- Purchase and cut plywood down to 6 inch strips. I bought four sheets of 4'X8' sanded plywood at 11/32" thickness. I had Lowes cut it in 6" strips. You could also use a table saw to rip them down yourself.
- Mark studs on wall using stud finder and pencil to ensure that each board is nailed into a stud. Starting at the baseboard, we placed one full 8' board at the edge of the wall and nailed it in place use nail gug.
- Next, cut one to fit the rest of the wall, which for our wall was right at 5 and 1/3 feet.
- Place besides the 8 foot piece and nail into place.
- Place 8 foot board on the opposite side of the wall above the previous row and use a nickel as a spacer between each new row, sliding it along as we nailed the board into place.
- We just continued to alternate which side we used the 8 foot board on.
- Use a level every few boards to make sure the boards are staying level and not getting too wonky. We definitely had to fudge a little here and there to get things even.
- Cut around any outlets or switches by placing planks on the wall, marking where they need to be cut, and then cut them out using jigsaw.
- Continue alternating boards and using the nickel spacer to nail the shiplap onto the wall until you get near the top.
- Measure the space between the last wood strip and the ceiling. Cut last piece of plywood and nail into place.
- Optional step: fill nail holes with putty, allow to dry, and then paint. Honestly, we didn't do this and didn't mind the small nail holes. You really couldn't even see them.
- The next day I primed the wall and then painted the whole wall with Benjamin Moore White Dove.
Notes
- We had to cut the top board (right below the crown molding) to be a little less than 6″ wide, as the the (nickel sized) spaces between the boards caused there to be slightly less than 6″ left at the top.
- I would say most of the time is spent in the prep work, getting the wood and having it cut, cutting the boards to fit and notching it out in the appropriate spots, like on the corners of the baseboards and the electrical outlets.
Nutrition information is automatically calculated, so should only be used as an approximation.
I have a question about the project (beautiful, by the way). You mentioned the boards were cut into 6" strips. Did those fit exactly from the baseboard to the top molding by spacing with the nickel?
Thank you so much for asking this question! It is definitely something I should add to my post. No, it did not work out perfectly. We had to cut the top pieces to the right size. They are about an inch shorter than the others.
Lisa, just a thought.. would you suggest starting at the top of the wall if someone else we’re to do this? That way if if you had to cut a narrower board it wouldn’t be so noticable at the bottom. Also you could cover the narrower board with baseboard trim if needed or preferred.
Lisa, just a thought… If you were to do this project again, do you think you’d start at the top of the wall first? That way if you have a narrower board it won’t show up so much b/c either furniture would cover the narrower board… Or you could add base board trim.
Hi Audra, I was wondering the same thing. To me, the smaller board may be more noticeable along the top than if at the bottom.
This looks great and we are getting ready to do this project this weekend! A couple of questions: 1.) Did you "seal" the corners of the shiplap? I cannot tell by the pictures and was wondering what you did where the "shiplap" met the corner of the other wall. 2.)Did you do any special around the base boards/crown molding?
We didn’t seal it or add anything where it met the other wall. I suppose you could add some kind of trim to make the transition a little smoother. Good luck on your project this weekend! You will love it!!
the lights!!! where do i get the lights???
I found them at a garage sale. SO sorry!! Wish I could help you out on that! If I ever find anything similar in a store I will link them for sure. 😉
Did you have a hard time installing your sconce lights over the plywood? What’d you use for a wall anchor?
Can you tell me where you bought the beautiful iron bed? I am looking for one but have been hesitant to buy online because you never know how sturdy it will be.
I just saw this post and we sell one at my store. My store is Erdos at Home, and the bed is called Winchester Bed. It is extremely well made – I have one in my guest room – plus its heavy and BEAUTIFUL! I love it. We ship Nationwide! Let us know if you would like some info emailed to you. Our website is http://www.erdosathome.com. Our phone number is 205-444-0641 and my email is ashley.askew@erdosathome.com if you have any questions!
Target 🙂
Must of not read her whole blog all the questions are already in there
Did you roll or brush paint this? We’re doing the same thing soon and curious how people painted theirs thanks!
We rolled most of it but had to use the brush in the spaces between the boards. 🙂
Did you use spacers of some sort to space these? It looks like you have gaps between boards. It looks great and I’m trying to mimick this perfectly 🙂
Yes we did! We used a nickel. I guess I forgot to add that to the post. Thank you for bringing that to my attention! 🙂
Yes Lisa, you did mention you used a nickel. Haha, people will have you doubting yourself…🙃
I’m reading your post years later. Enjoyed it and pretty room. Great innovation!
Looks lovely, adds so much character to the room, job well done.
Thank you so much!
Your bedroom is beautiful. Having wood on the wall does makes such a difference for the feeling of a room. I wonder, though, if you realize that this is not shiplap. Shiplap is a specific kind of board that has a rabbet joint on each long edge. At best you could call this faux shiplap. Misnaming it, however, does not change the beauty of your bedroom!
haha Thank you so much! Yes I know its not real. More of a shiplap look. 😉
Kat,
You will notice if you read through the article that Lisa already stated that it was not “actual” shiplap material. Seriously no need to be negative. The finished product looks great and fits within the budget.
Did you have to move the electrical outlets out to accommodate the extra thickness of the wall and if so how or if not how?
You will have to put a spacer in the bring the outlets out to the same level as the shiplap, if that makes sense. We still need to do that, honestly. Our outlet is behind the bed, so we were able to get away with it.
We did shiplap behind our bed in the spring!! And I have the can of White Dove sitting up there, however I have not gotten around to painting it yet! Soon!! Because yours looks so beautiful!! Did you paint all your walls this color? We did our living rooms and stairwell recently and I was so pleased with how it brightened up the spaces.
I did all the walls in the bedroom and kitchen in this color. Just love it!
Do you need to paint the wall a dark color ( black) behind the shiplap?
No. Our wall is just white behind there.
Lisa could’ve also used a stain to “paint” the wall(s), but then it would be suggested to paint the wall behind with a similar paint stain color so as to not show the white wall behind it.. unless you want that look.