Learn how to make a simple DIY shiplap wall with this easy tutorial.
Oh the things husbands do for us!
Can I just say I am so happy we did this? It makes the wall behind our bed a focal point and the project was actually easier than expected!
DIY shiplap supplies
- 4 sheets 4′ by 8′ sanded plywood at 11/32″ thickness, cut into 6″ strips
- Air compressor and nail gun
- 1 and 3/8″ 18 gague nails
- Nickel for a spacer
To do the shiplap wall, I bought four sheets of 4’X8′ sanded plywood at 11/32″ thickness. I had Lowes cut it in 6″ strips. At $.25 per cut it was worth every penny. The total cost for the project was under $100 for a 160″by 90″ wall.
My husband started at the baseboard and used one full 8′ board and cut one to fit the rest of the wall, which for our wall was right at 5 and 1/3 feet. This left us with several scraps just under 3 feet. If the wall had been an even 12 feet, we would have done an 8 foot and 4 foot piece in each row and had no leftover pieces, but the world is not perfect and our house is old.
Speaking of that, we also had a major bow in the plaster to contend with. We solved that by having me hold the boards out a little, to make them even with the others, while my husband shot the nail in.
We used a Bostitch air compressor and nail gun and 1 and 3/8 inch 18 gauge nails that we purchased at Lowes. It made the project pretty speedy! We just continued to alternate which side we used the 8 foot board on. We used a nickel as a spacer between each new row, sliding it along as we nailed the board in place.
As we worked our way up the wall we used a level every few boards to make sure things weren’t getting wonky. We definitely had to fudge a little here and there to get things even.
The shiplap is up
After a few hours, the whole wall was done!
We did have to cut the top board (right below the crown molding) to be a little less than 6″ wide, as the the (nickel sized) spaces between the boards caused there to be slightly less than 6″ left at the top.
I would say most of the time is spent in the prep work, getting the wood and having it cut, cutting the boards to fit and notching it out in the appropriate spots, like on the corners of the baseboards and the electrical outlets.
After all that its smooth sailing!
The next night I painted the whole wall with Benjamin Moore White Dove.
I love how it turned out! It makes the room feel so light, bright and cozy!
Some common questions people ask:
How much is shiplap?
Real shiplap has tongue and groove boards that actually fit together, and can be pricey. The shiplap wall in this tutorial cost less than $100. This shiplap tutorial is not actually real shiplap, but is much cheaper. I have seen real shiplap and I honestly can’t tell the difference between the real tongue and groove and plywood. That ‘s why I opted to go the cheap route!
How wide is shiplap?
The shiplap in this tutorial is 6″ wide, but actual widths can vary. We have real shiplap, from 100 years ago, exposed in our boys’ closet. It is closer to 8″.
What color should you paint shiplap?
We used Benjamin Moore White Dove, but I have seen it look really beautiful in gray and darker colors as well.
Check out the other posts in this makeover here:
And since so many have asked where my iron bed is from…it is the antique bronze metal bed from Target. I hope to write a review on it in the near future, but *spolier alert* we love it!
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